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Gourmet Gamble
Coastal Living By Nicole Johnson Melinda Blanchard rides shotgun, her tanned bare feet perched on the dashboard. Her husband, Bob, navigates the left side of Anguilla’s rural roads, one hand on the wheel and the other catching a breeze outside the open window. He greets passersby with a tap of the horn and a wave. Melinda leans forward and sketches a map into the light dust on the dash. “X” marks Island Harbor, the far-eastern point of this paradise they now call home. They’re meeting Thomas, “our lobster guy,” says Bob. He’s waiting for them there, in his crayon blue and red fishing boat, with today’s catch for tonight’s menu at the Blanchards’ restaurant. But they’re in no great rush. “Things move a bit slower out here,” says Melinda. Their pace hasn’t always been on “island time.” Years earlier in Vermont, Bob and Melinda founded and operated a gourmet foods company, Blanchard & Blanchard & Son. As the business grew and investors became increasingly involved, the couple realized “we weren’t cut out to work for other people,” Melinda says. A past Caribbean vacation planted the seed for a career and latitude shift. “We had been playing on the beach all day and were hungry,” recalls Bob. “We stumbled upon this man, sitting with his legs propped up under a thatch-roofed hut, selling raw burger patties. We bought three, he pointed to the grill, and we just slapped them on. It was genius. I thought, ‘This man knows how to live. I want to do that.” They sold most of their shares of Blanchard & Blanchard & Son, packed their belongings, and shipped them to Anguilla. “The island attracts an interesting mix of people, and there’s no crime or casinos. And just look outside,” says Melinda, gesturing to azure waters caressing white sand. “This is what we wake up to every morning.” In 1994, Melinda and Bob opened the doors of Blanchards Restaurant. No burger hut, it entices visitors with fresh seafood. “I like keeping recipes simple. And I like enhancing the food’s natural flavors with herbs and spices, not covering them up,” says Melinda, a self-taught chef who cheerily admits she “was born to eat.” She captains the kitchen, which pulses with the jovial cast of characters composing the restaurant’s crew. Bob meets and greets in the dining area, stopping to regale patrons with a story or to recommend a wine selection. Though busy with restaurant duties, the couple managed to write two books along the way. A Trip to the Beach chronicles their exhilarating and, at times, maddening move to the island. It continues to elicit hundreds of e-mails and letters from inspired fans. “‘Life changing’ is a common phrase we encounter,” says Bob. It’s the couple’s recent effort; however, that truly excites them. They penned At Blanchard’s ‘Table; A Trip to the Beach Cookbook, stocked with concoctions that loyal–often celebrity–patrons continually request. Anguilla’s high season, late fall through early spring, keeps the Blanchards busy seven days and nights a week. Their respite? Summer trips back to Vermont to spend time with family and friends, indulging in the best of their two worlds. Now, sitting on the porch of their beach home, they scan the sparkling turquoise sea. “We have the most ideal life,” says Melinda. “And life keeps getting better.” Recipe for Success It took a lot of elbow grease to turn Blanchard’s into a well-oiled machine. If you dream of one day opening an island establishment, heed Melinda and Bob’s tips. Learn from others. First and foremost, talk with those who have made similar moves. The more you can learn about what to expect, the better prepared you’ll be for the process. Talk with the local government. Ask about necessary permits, fees, applications, and any laws that may be relevant to your project. Find a niche. Identify your market and your competition. Will you be catering to locals, visitors, or both? “When we came here the first time, the island was saturated in either smaller places serving chicken and ribs, or upscale resorts featuring French cuisine. We needed to bring something new to the table, so to speak,” says Melinda. Make contacts. Locate your mainland suppliers and determine the most efficient way to get deliveries. Chances are some will be by boat and others by plane. Don’t go changin’. You’re not there to alter the island customs and culture. Remember that you’re the person looking for a change in lifestyle; the locals probably don’t want one. Chilled Avocado-Lime Soup with Shrimp and Chilies Guests at Blanchards Restaurant enjoy Melinda Blanchard’s simple, flavorful dishes. Here’s one. 2 pounds ripe avocados (about 5), peeled and chopped 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 1/3 cup fresh lime juice, divided 3 cups chicken broth 1 cup cream 1 teaspoon salt, divided ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ½ tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro 10 medium cooked shrimp, peeled, deveined, and halved horizontally 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil Garnish: fresh cilantro Combine first 3 ingredients, 3 tablespoons lime juice, and 1 cup chicken broth in food processor; process until smooth. Transfer mixture to a large bowl; whisk in remaining 2 cups chicken broth, cream, ¾ teaspoon salt, 1 ½ teaspoon black pepper, and chopped cilantro. Chill soup mixture. Combine shrimp, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. 1/8 teaspoon black pepper and oil in a small bowl. Toss with remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice. Let stand for 15 minutes. Ladle soup into bowls, and top each with 5 shrimp halves. Garnish, if desired. Makes 4 servings. |
